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Tech Tips
212 Carroll St.
• Ft. Worth, TX 76107
Monday - Friday 8 am to 6 pm CDT
Saturday 9 am to 2 pm CDT
(817) 335-9331 • FAX: (817)
335-5158
Now in stock at Automotive Machine & Supply
New complete radiator and A/C condensor fan assemblies
These units are completely plug and play. Each one
comes with mounting brackets, fan blade and motor and
factory wiring with plug.
No more splicing, soldering, taping or guessing.
The right fitting component every time.
For
more information, contact Automotive Machine at
1-800-210-8675.
DURA Ceramic Disc Brake
Pads
Engineered to eliminate noise, vibration and
harshness, Dura Ceramic
Disc Brake Pads provide the ultimate braking
experience. The best
replacement for restoring OE ceramic pad
performance, Dura Ceramic
Disc Pads are also ideal for upgrading from
conventional pads.
In addition to dramatically quieter braking, Dura
Ceramic Pads provide
best-in-class braking performance, including
enhanced initial effectiveness
(no break-in required), high resistance to fade,
consistent brake pedal feel
and ultra-low dusting for cleaner wheels and tires.
Ceramic technology also
causes minimal wear on brake rotors.
All of this adds up to fewer comebacks, increased bay
efficiency, and
completely satisfied customers.
Dura Ceramic Brake Technology leads the industry with
these exclusive
features:
-
Harmonically damped design for maximum control of
NVH
-
Vehicle-optimized ceramic formulas for superior
performance that is unmatched by “one size fits all”
brands
-
Post cured and heat scorched to ensure the highest
initial effectiveness requiring no “break-in
procedures” (exclusive to front formulations)
-
“Rotor-friendly” pad formulations prevent uneven
rotor wearing and pulsation complaints
-
Precision-fit steel backing plates lead the industry
in reducing vibration induced noise
-
100% chamfered and slotted to further enhance NVH
control
-
High resistance to fade with fast recovery
-
Black powder coat finish provides OE-level corrosion
resistance
-
100% asbestos-free formulations
-
High-temperature resistant moly lube included in all
boxes
For more information, contact Automotive Machine at
1-800-210-8675.
SERVICING
IMPORTS: TOP 10 FAQ'S
For more
Tech Tips and repair information for your import car,
call Automotive Machine at 1-800-210-8675.
1.
Q.
Why do many
VOLKSWAGEN
GOLF, GTI
and
JETTA
cars make
a clunking noise from the front suspension after
backing out of a
parking space and then moving forward, especially
while the wheels
are turned sharply, or while braking on a sharp curve?
A.
The noise is often caused by a front wheel bearings
shifting side to
side within the housing. To fix the problem VW
recommends replacing
the wheel bearing as per repair manual instructions,
with the additional
step: before pressing the new bearing into the
housing, coat the outer
diameter of the bearing and the bore of the housing
with moly grease.
2.
Q.
When stopped at a light with my
MAZDA's
automatic transmission
in gear, the engine stalls. Why?
A.
A leaking lock-up circuit may be causing the
transmission's torque
converter clutch to remain engaged, causing the engine
to stall. Check
the lock up solenoid for a leak (it should not leak
when air is applied).
Also check the valve body for leaks by pressurizing
with air. If no leaks
are found, drill the lock-up solenoid feed hole in the
separator plate with
a 1mm (.040") bit.
3.
Q.
The head gasket on my
SUBARU
blew only a few weeks
after it was replaced... What gives?
A. On some models, mostly 2002-2005 2.5L DOHC engines,
Subaru has had
problems with head gasket sealing. The factory has
revised the tightening
procedure several times... this seems to be the latest
version: Make sure the threads in the block are clean
and free of oil or coolant. Clean the bolt threads and
place a drop of motor oil on the threads, and on both
sides of the washers. Install the bolts with washers
and tighten them in four steps. First, torque in
proper sequence to 22 ft lbs, then 51 ftlbs. Next
loosen the bolts, in the reverse order of the
tightening sequence, 180 degrees, then another 180
degrees in reverse sequence. Torque all six bolts in
sequence
to 29 ft lbs. Tighten all addition 90 degrees of
rotation. Lastly, tutrn only
bolts 1 and 2 another 45 degrees.
Looking down at the head bolts, the tightening
sequence is:
note: * = head bolt O = valve spring < = front
3 1
6
< * OO * OO *
* OO * OO *
5 2
4
4.
Q.
My
VOLKSWAGEN
with a 16V engine is hard to start and runs poorly.
Is there something I can check before taking it in for
repair?
A.
The problem may be arcing in the distributor cap if
your VW is equipped
with the cap that has a black plastic static
suppressor shield. To diagnose and
fix this, remove the cap and shield, look at both the
outside and inside of the
cap for carbon tracks and signs of electrical arcing,
Replace the cap with a
new one if either is present. Next look at the
sparkplug wire terminals, at the
cap end, for arcing, corroded or a loose terminal.
Replace any wires that are
suspect.
5.
Q.
When I start my 1998
MITSUBISHI
ECLIPSE
in the morning, it makes a
squealing noise under the hood. What's wrong with my
car?
A.
Mitsubishi
recommends replacing the squealing alternator belt on
the
Eclipse and Galant with a new belt and, using a belt
tension gauge, tension
it to a value of 150 lbs. Always adjust the belt when
the engine is cold.
6.
Q.
After I replaced the valve cover gasket on my Toyota
Pickup, with a 22R engine, I hear a loud knocking
noise. Any idea what is causing this?
A.
reusing the rubber seals and / or over tightening the
4 "acorn" nuts that hold the valve cover on can
decrease the valve cover to rocker arm clearance
enough to allow the rocker to strike the cover.
Replace the 4
seals and re-torque the nuts to factory specs.
7.
Q.
I just replaced the clutch in my Mitsubishi
Eclipse...it still grinds the gears a bit and is hard
to shift. Can you help?
A.
Try this: While pulling up on the clutch pedal,
tighten the right side clutch linkage cross shaft,
located under the dash. This often comes loose and
won't allow the pedal to fully depress the clutch
master cylinder, causing the clutch to only partially
disengage.
8.
Q.
About six months after having the engine completely
rebuilt, I had to have the cylinder head on my Jaguar
welded and resurfaced because of electrolytic
corrosion on the aluminum head's gasket area.. why did
this happen?
A.
This type of corrosion typically occurs on higher
mileage engines, which do not get proper anti-freeze
maintenance. The coolant should be flushed and changed
at least every 2 years , and refilled with the proper
coolant. However in your case, I suspect the engine
block's electrical ground straps were not installed
properly after the rebuild. We often see cases where
the installing mechanic either omitted or left them
loose, or failed to clean both the cable and the
contact area on the engine. This can cause electric
current to use the coolant as a ground path, causing
corrosion inside the engine.
9.
Q.
Why does my Honda Civic pull to the left after I
replaced the brake pads?
A.
Usually to get the new thicker pads to fit, you must
push the caliper pistons back into their bores. They
often have corrosion/dirt on them and can stick,
causing the pad to not fully release after applying
and releasing the brakes. To check to see if the pads
are not releasing, test drive the car and carefully
feel the lug nuts/bolts on both front wheels,
comparing their temperatures. The wheel with a sticky
caliper/brake pad will usually have much warmer lugs.
In your case the left lugs should be warmer if the
pulling is a brake related...otherwise suspect a wheel
bearing or suspension/steering issues.
10.
Q.
My Toyota Landcruiser has gremlins! I turn the
ignition off, but the rear window defogger/blower kept
running...it drained the battery. What is the fix?
A.
Look for a broken or missing ground wire that connect
the rear hatch to the body. Repair or install a ground
wire as needed. Recharge the battery.
For more information, contact Automotive Machine at
1-800-210-8675.
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